Lhotse stands at 8516 M, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m, and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest.
A deep scar, an icy gully known as the Lhotse Couloir, marks The West Face of Lhotse; the couloir is the crucial test to the Lhotse climb, mainly because of the climbing conditions of the couloir are affected by weather and seasonal snowfall. The route progresses through Khumbu icefall. Moving further, we will reach Camp 1 that exists at the top of Khumbu icefall that is surrounded by crevasses. From Camp 1, we will pass through lateral moraine to the west ridge that greets us with a close-up view of Lhotse. This place is perfect for Camp2. Leaving Camp2, we will reach near to Lhotse wall by crossing glacier and ice cliffs where we will set Camp3. Camp4 is located near to South Col. From Camp 4, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit.
14 Summits has compiled a list of necessary equipment, personal medical supplies and symptoms of medical condition likely to face during trekking / peak climbing. Also, please do understand that items listed below should be considered as an essential summary.
We highly recommend you to be familiar with all of your equipment and basic understanding of medical Conditions related to high elevation.
Your document to travel to Nepal:
Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, airline tickets
Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance
Dollars in cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport
Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards)
Personal Climbing gear:
Harness: A climbing harness should be lightweight and fully adjustable. Easy to put on and take off.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. Should be light and easy to use.
Crampons: It must fit boot perfectly and lighter is better.
Carabineers: Two large locking “pear” shaped 4 regular mountaineering carabineers
Prussik cord: You can use in many situation, carry couple more.
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or similar. Very important to devices for descending.
Ascender / Jhumar: Must be comfortable to be use with gloves.
Helmet: It is very important to use while crossing areas through rock fall, ice cliff. Better light weight.
Walking pool: Adjustable types are the best, it will be very much helpful while walking through snow field or rocky trail.
Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees F
Headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
Large plastic bags – for keeping items dry inside trek bag
Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
Small wash towel
Personal Clothing items.
Sun hat or scarf
Light balaclava or warm fleece hat
Sunglasses with UV protection
Weight thermal tops
Fleece jacket or pullover
Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
Down vest and/or jacket (optional)
Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
Lightweight cotton long pants
Light and expedition weight thermal bottoms
Fleece or wool pants
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
Thick, warm wool hiking socks
Hiking boots with spare laces
Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
Personal hygiene supplies;
Two tubes lip sun cream, at least 1 large tube regular sun cream (min. factor 30), some after-sun lotion in case you do get asunburn
One toothpaste/brush set;
One hand sanitizer gel
1 (fast drying) synthetic towel
Personal prescription medications; Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
Small personal first-aid kit; (Simple and Light): first-aid tape, plasters (Band-Aids),alcohol-free wipes for cuts, personal medications, etc. (The leaders will have more extensive first-aid kits)
One skin blister repair kit
Anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium) (one regular package)
Anti-headache medication (Aspirin or Ibuprofen) (one regular package)
One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
One small bottle anti-altitude sickness medication: Diamox (Acetylzolamide), available locally, for more about this medication, please contact us or your doctor
One small bottle of water purification tablets (needs to contain silver-ions AND chlorine) or a water filter or UV sterilizer.
Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.