Mt. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world and is located in the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in north central Nepal. Dhaulagiri means “White Mountain”.Dhaulagiri forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a sub range of the Nepal Himalaya. The Dhaulagiri Himal lie in the Dhaulagiri Zone of north-central Nepal, northwest of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki to the east lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the other eight-thousanders.
After its discovery in 1808 by the western world, Dhaulagiri was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. This lasted for 30 years before Dhaulagiri’s place was taken by Kanchenjunga.
In terms of rise above local terrain, Dhaulagiri is, in fact, almost unparalleled in the world. For example, it rises 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast in about 30km of horizontal distance. The Kali Gandaki is especially dramatic since Dhaulagiri and Annapurna both stand near the river, giving a unique example of two eight-thousanders facing each other over a deep valley.
The South Face of Dhaulagiri is also a massive drop; it is approximately a 4000m wall, and it has been the site of some epic climbs.
Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. The expedition leader was Max Eiselin; they used the Northeast Ridge route. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by an airplane. The airplane, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during the approach and was later abandoned on the mountain.
The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the “Normal Route” on the mountain. However ascents have been made from almost every direction.
Highlights of Dhaulagiri Expedition:
We will be staying at 2/3 star hotel in Kathmandu, and fully camping basis while trekking and climbing. All rooms are on twin-shared basis. Single bedroom will be arranged on request and will cost additional. Fourteen Summit will arrange rooms with attached washrooms; however, while camping there will be tented shower and bathroom.
In Kathmandu, breakfast will be available. All meals will be provided during climbing including tea, coffee prepared by our cook. There will also be welcome and farewell dinners taking place for guests. While on trek, we have breakfast and dinner in the camp where we spend the night and lunch on our way to next destination. Authentic Nepalese, Tibetan, continental meals are common choices in the menu.
Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition is a strenuous expedition. Climbers who can walk/climb up to 5-6 hours a day on an uphill and downhill trail will find this expedition fulfilling. It is best that we prepare ourselves for the Dhaulagiri Expedition by climbing, jogging and exercising regularly at least couple months prior to the start of the expedition. Climbing to the Mt. Dhaulagiri should be relatively fine for those who have experience climbing/trekking in a high altitude environment. Past climbing, hiking experience would be an asset because technical skill is required for this trip. Participants with pre-existing medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases should inform Fourteen Summit before booking the trek.
The best time for expedition to Mt. Dhaulagiri is during spring (April to May) and autumn ( September to October). The temperature is moderate and guarantees amazing views throughout the trip. Although this expedition can be undertaken during winter, the cold temperature might not be suitable for everyone.
Fourteen Summit has compiled a list of necessary equipment, personal medical supplies and symptoms of medical condition likely to face during trekking / peak climbing. Also, please do understand that items listed below should be considered as an essential summary.
We highly recommend you to be familiar with all of your equipment and basic understanding of medical Conditions related to high elevation.
Your document to travel to Nepal:
Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, airline tickets
Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance
Dollars in cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport
Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards)
Personal Climbing gear:
Harness: A climbing harness should be lightweight and fully adjustable. Easy to put on and take off.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. Should be light and easy to use.
Crampons: It must fit boot perfectly and lighter is better.
Carabineers: Two large locking “pear” shaped 4 regular mountaineering carabineers
Prussik cord: You can use in many situation, carry couple more.
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or similar. Very important to devices for descending.
Ascender / Jhumar: Must be comfortable to be use with gloves.
Helmet: It is very important to use while crossing areas through rock fall, ice cliff. Better light weight.
Walking pool: Adjustable types are the best, it will be very much helpful while walking through snow field or rocky trail.
Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees F
Headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
Large plastic bags – for keeping items dry inside trek bag
Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
Small wash towel
Personal Clothing items.
Sun hat or scarf
Light balaclava or warm fleece hat
Sunglasses with UV protection
Weight thermal tops
Fleece jacket or pullover
Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
Down vest and/or jacket (optional)
Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
Lightweight cotton long pants
Light and expedition weight thermal bottoms
Fleece or wool pants
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
Thick, warm wool hiking socks
Hiking boots with spare laces
Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
Personal hygiene supplies;
Two tubes lip sun cream, at least 1 large tube regular sun cream (min. factor 30), some after-sun lotion in case you do get asunburn
One toothpaste/brush set;
One hand sanitizer gel
1 (fast drying) synthetic towel
Personal prescription medications; Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
Small personal first-aid kit; (Simple and Light): first-aid tape, plasters (Band-Aids),alcohol-free wipes for cuts, personal medications, etc. (The leaders will have more extensive first-aid kits)
One skin blister repair kit
Anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium) (one regular package)
Anti-headache medication (Aspirin or Ibuprofen) (one regular package)
One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
One small bottle anti-altitude sickness medication: Diamox (Acetylzolamide), available locally, for more about this medication, please contact us or your doctor
One small bottle of water purification tablets (needs to contain silver-ions AND chlorine) or a water filter or UV sterilizer.
Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.