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Expedition Overview

Facts of the trip

  • Destination
    Nepal
  • Arrival On
    Kathmandu
  • Departure From
    Kathmandu
  • Accommodation
    Hotel, Teahouse Lodge - Tented Camp
  • Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  • Best Time
    Spring, Autumn
  • Transportation
    Jeep, Domestic Flight

Mount Makalu Expedition (8,485 meters / 27,838 feet) is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, southeast of Mount Everest. Known for its distinct pyramid shape with sharp ridges and steep faces, Makalu is one of the most technically challenging 8,000-meter peaks.

The mountain lies within Makalu-Barun National Park, a remote and pristine region rich in biodiversity. Unlike Everest or Manaslu, Makalu sees fewer climbers, offering a more isolated and demanding climbing experience. The first successful ascent was made by a French expedition led by Jean Franco in 1955. Due to its extreme altitude, unpredictable weather, and technical sections such as the final summit ridge, Makalu is considered a true test for experienced mountaineers.

Makalu Expedition

Highlight of Makalu Expedition

The Makalu Expedition typically follows the southeast ridge route, the same path taken by the first ascent team. The climb requires excellent technical skills, including proficiency in rock, ice, and mixed climbing. Most expeditions take around 50–60 days, including acclimatization and weather considerations. The journey begins with a scenic flight to Tumlingtar, followed by a trek through the remote Barun Valley.

Climbers establish multiple camps above Base Camp (4,800m), with Camp IV at approximately 7,600m before the final summit push. The best climbing seasons are pre-monsoon (spring: April–May) and post-monsoon (autumn: September–October). Due to the extreme conditions and high risks, only well-prepared climbers with prior 8,000-meter experience are encouraged to attempt Makalu.

With our experienced team, personalized approach, and deep knowledge of Makalu’s terrain, we ensure a professionally executed climb, allowing mountaineers to push their limits and achieve their dream of standing atop one of the world’s most majestic peaks.

Highlights:

– Elevation: 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) – the fifth-highest mountain in the world.
– Location: Mahalangur Himalayas, southeast of Mount Everest.
– Shape & Features: Distinct pyramid shape, steep ridges, and technical climbing sections.
– First Ascent: French expedition led by Jean Franco in 1955.
– Challenges:  Extreme altitude, unpredictable weather, and technical summit ridge.
– Remote & Less Crowded: Fewer climbers compared to Everest, offering a more isolated and demanding experience.
– Situated in: Makalu-Barun National Park, rich in biodiversity.

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Itinerary

Here’s a detailed itinerary for a Mount Makalu Expedition, covering each day’s activities, altitude gains, acclimatization, and other crucial details for climbers.

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– Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA), Kathmandu.
– Transfer to hotel, rest, and prepare for expedition briefing.

– Official briefing at the Department of Tourism.
– Gear check, shopping for last-minute supplies.
– Meet climbing guides and team members.

– 45-minute scenic flight to Tumlingtar.
– Drive to Num via rough mountain roads (5-6 hours).

– Steep descent to Arun River and uphill climb to Seduwa.
– Trekking through lush forests and traditional villages.

– Gradual ascent through terraced fields and rhododendron forests.
– Tashigaon is the last permanent village before Makalu Base Camp.

– Steep climb with no villages en route.
– First high-altitude camp with incredible views.

– Rest and explore nearby viewpoints.
– Hydration and light hiking for acclimatization.

– Cross Shipton La (4,200m) and Keke La (4,170m) passes.
– Spectacular views of Chamlang and Makalu peaks.

– Descend through a dense forest and follow Barun River.
– Walk along glacial valleys with waterfalls.

– Trek through yak pastures and rocky terrain.
– Amazing views of Makalu and surrounding peaks.

– Short but strenuous trek on glacial moraine.
– First clear sight of Mount Makalu’s massive structure.

– Rest, hydration, and short hikes for better acclimatization.
– Set up climbing gear and final preparations.

Base Camp (4,870m) – Rest & acclimatization.
Camp I (6,150m/20,177ft) – First major climb, setting up tent sites.
Camp II (6,750m/22,145ft) – Crossing glaciers & crevasses.
Camp III (7,450m/24,445ft) – High-altitude camp; facing strong winds.
Camp IV (7,900m/25,918ft) – Summit push preparation.
Summit Day (8,485m/27,838ft) – Early morning climb (~10-15 hours).

After reaching the summit, climbers descend carefully to lower camps and return to base camp.

– Rest, pack equipment, and celebrate successful ascent.
– Clean the camp as per eco-friendly expedition rules.

– Retrace steps down the valley, easy downhill walk.

– Continue descending through lush greenery.

– A challenging day with uphill sections.

– Long descent with rewarding views.

– Final trek back to Num and drive to Tumlingtar.

– Short flight to Kathmandu.
– Rest and enjoy a farewell dinner.

– Drop-off at airport for international departure.

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Cost Details

What's Included
  • Pick up from and drop to the international airport in Kathmandu.
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu (3 nights in 2-3 star level tourist standard hotel, other possibilites on demand)
  • One Welcome Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staffs.
  • Necessary Permit: Everest Climbing Permit, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS
  • Khumbu Ice Fall Climbingcharge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
  • Government Liaison officer with full equipment ($2,500), salary, and accommodation.
  • Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
  • Domestic flight: Kathmandu - Lukla _ Kathmandu
  • All Necessary equipments Transportation for all Members and Staffs from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition expedition stuff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
  • Up to 70 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carrying by porters or Yaks.
  • Meals (3 meals / B.L.D) while on the trek (possible to choose the opiton including only breakfast and order lunch and dinner individually from the teahouse menu)
  • Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
  • Required number of Base Camp Staff: Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers.
  • All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, foods & clothing.
  • At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staffs, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • Heater for base camp in each Dining and in other necessary camps.
  • Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
  • Professional High altitude climbing guide 1:1 basis.
  • Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing for expedition staff
  • 5 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 3-oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa.
  • 1 Set of Summit Oxygen mask and regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa.
  • We have Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator
  • High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • Satellite Phone for emergency communication carrying by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
  • Walkie-Talkie: Walkie –Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
  • Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
  • Government tax and Company service charges.
WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED
  • International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
  • Nepali Visa fee $60 USD per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days is $120 USD).
  • Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
  • Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, Helicopter medical & emergency evacuation. *Mandatory
  • Medical and emergency rescue evacuation costs if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs).
  • Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will soft drinks for members at base camp).
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
  • Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
  • Special Filming, Camera and Drone permit fee
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD. (Applies to Full Board Member).
  • Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff.
  • Rope Fixing: The cost of using fixed rope during the expedition. ($300 USD) - Applies to Basecamp Member).
  • Our Company’s Service will be "Zero" above Base Camp (If a company offers just Base Camp services)
  • Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary.

What to Expect

Accommodation:

Throughout the expedition, we ensure comfortable lodging arrangements tailored to the different phases of the journey. In Kathmandu, accommodation will be provided in carefully selected 3- to 4-star hotels, offering modern amenities and a relaxing environment. During the trekking phase, we will stay in traditional tea houses or lodges that provide a cozy and authentic Himalayan experience. While ascending the mountain, full-service camping will be arranged, complete with high-altitude tents and essential facilities to ensure comfort and safety.

Rooms are allocated on a twin-sharing basis. However, if a participant requests a single room, we can arrange it at an additional cost. Fourteen Summits prioritizes comfort and will arrange rooms with attached washrooms wherever available. However, during the camping phase, portable tented shower facilities and bio-friendly toilet tents will be set up to maintain hygiene standards in remote locations.

Meals:

We understand the importance of a well-balanced diet to sustain energy levels during the expedition. All meals are included during the trek. However, upon request, we can arrange for only breakfast to be provided, allowing trekkers to order lunch and dinner individually from tea-house menus. While in Kathmandu, daily breakfast will be provided, along with special welcome and farewell dinners featuring a variety of local and international delicacies.

During the trek, breakfast and dinner will be served at the lodges or tea houses where we spend the night, while lunch will be arranged at suitable resting points along the route. The menus typically offer a mix of authentic Nepalese, Tibetan, Continental, and Indian cuisine, catering to diverse palates. Nutritional requirements are carefully considered, and high-energy meals will be provided to sustain endurance throughout the expedition.

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements:

The Mount Everest Expedition is an extremely challenging endeavor that requires peak physical fitness, mental resilience, and prior high-altitude climbing experience. Participants should be capable of trekking for 6 to 7 hours per day on varying terrain, including steep inclines, rugged trails, and glacial pathways. Acclimatization is key to success, and we strongly recommend a dedicated training regimen, including cardiovascular workouts, strength training, and endurance exercises, at least 2 to 3 months before the expedition.

For optimal preparedness, climbers should have prior experience in high-altitude trekking or expeditions above 7,000 meters. Familiarity with technical mountaineering skills, including the use of crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes, is essential for a safe and successful ascent. Any pre-existing medical conditions related to the heart, lungs, or blood circulation must be disclosed to Fourteen Summits before booking, as altitude sickness and extreme cold conditions may pose serious health risks.

Best Time to Travel:

The optimal seasons for an Everest expedition are spring (April to May) and autumn (August to September). These periods offer stable weather, moderate temperatures, and clearer skies, ensuring breathtaking panoramic views and safer climbing conditions. Spring is particularly popular as it provides optimal conditions for summit attempts, with milder temperatures and lower wind speeds. Autumn is also a favorable season, offering crisp air and stunning landscapes, though the conditions may be slightly colder at higher altitudes.

Although expeditions can be undertaken in winter, the extreme cold, high winds, and unpredictable weather conditions make it a challenging and less favorable time for most climbers. Therefore, for an optimal and rewarding Everest experience, we highly recommend planning the expedition during the recommended peak seasons.

Equipment List

Essential Equipment & Medical Supplies for Trekking & Peak Climbing

At Fourteen Summits, we understand that preparation is the key to a safe and successful trekking or peak climbing experience. To help you, we have compiled a comprehensive list of essential equipment, personal medical supplies, and potential medical conditions that trekkers and climbers may encounter at high altitudes.
Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, having the right gear and knowledge can make a significant difference in your comfort and safety. Please note that the items listed below serve as a fundamental guideline for your adventure.

Important Recommendations before Your Trip

  • Familiarize yourself with all your equipment before departure.
  • Understand basic high-altitude medical conditions, such as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), and learn how to manage them.
  • Train physically by engaging in cardio exercises, strength training, and endurance-building activities at least 2-3 months before your climb.
  • Ensure you have adequate travel insurance that covers high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuations.
  • Pack wisely; keeping weight minimal but ensuring you have all necessary gear.

 

A. Required Travel Documents for Nepal
Before traveling, make sure you have the following documents ready:

1. Mandatory Documents:

  • Valid passport with at least six months of validity from the date of entry into Nepal
  • Two extra passport-size photos (for permits and trekking registration)
  • International airline tickets

2. Nepal Visa & Entry Requirements:

  • A Nepalese visa can be obtained on arrival at Kathmandu Airport or through the Nepalese embassy/consulate in your home country.
  • You will need cash in USD for the visa fee (costs vary based on duration).
  • A completed visa application form (available at the airport).

3. Additional Travel Essentials:

  • Photocopies of your passport and visa (keep separate from the originals)
  • Proof of travel insurance covering high-altitude trekking, medical emergencies, and helicopter evacuations
  • Credit cards, bank/ATM cards (bring photocopies in case of loss)
  • Local currency (Nepalese Rupees) for small purchases

 

B. Essential Trekking & Climbing Gear

1. Personal Climbing Gear
Having the right gear is crucial for safety, efficiency, and comfort during high-altitude climbs.

  • Harness – A lightweight, fully adjustable climbing harness that is easy to put on and take off.
  • Ice Axe – General mountaineering axe, lightweight, and easy to handle.
  • Crampons – Must fit your boots perfectly; lightweight crampons are preferable for ease of movement.
  • Carabiners – Two large locking “pear” shaped and four regular mountaineering carabiners.
  • Prusik Cord – Carry a couple of extra cords for emergency use.
  • Ascenders – One left- or right-handascender (e.g., Petzl brand recommended).
  • Jumar (Ascender) – Comfortable for use with gloves.
  • Rappel Device – Figure 8, ATC, or similar for controlled descents.
  • Helmet – Lightweight, impact-resistant, and essential for protection from rockfalls and ice cliffs.
  • Trekking Poles – Adjustable poles are recommended for better balance on snowfields and rocky trails.

2. Accessories

  • Sleeping Bag – Rated to zero degrees Fahrenheit(colder conditions may require -20°F).
  • Headlamp – With spare bulbs and extra batteries.
  • Padlock/Combination Lock – For securing your trek bag.
  • Basic First Aid Kit– See the Medical Supplies section below.
  • Large Plastic Bags – To keep items dry inside your trek bag.
  • Daypack – Capacity: 2,500 to 3,000 cubic inches for daily essentials.
  • Water Bottles – At least two one-liter bottles.
  • Toiletries & Small Wash Towel
  • Raincoat – A lightweight, waterproof poncho or jacket.

 

C. Clothing Guide for High-Altitude Trekking
Dressing in layers is the key for adapting to changing temperatures and conditions.

1. Head & Face Protection

  • Sun Hat/Scarf– Essential for sun protection at high altitudes.
  • Light Balaclava or Fleece Hat – For warmth in cold temperatures.
  • Sunglasses – UV protection is essential due to intense sunlight at high altitudes.

2. Upper Body Layers

  • T-Shirts – Moisture-wicking material recommended.
  • Fleece Jacket or Pullover – Provides warmth and insulation.
  • Windproof Jacket (optional) – Fleece Windstopper jacket for windy conditions.
  • Waterproof Shell Jacket – Preferably breathable (e.g., Gore-Tex material).
  • Down Vest or Jacket – Optional but helpful for extreme cold conditions.

3. Lower Body Clothing

  • Hiking Shorts – Comfortable for warmer days at lower elevations.
  • Lightweight Cotton Long Pants – Suitable for general trekking.
  • Thermal Base Layers (Expedition-Weight)– For extreme cold.
  • Waterproof Shell Pants – Preferably breathable fabric for protection against wind, rain, and snow.

4. Footwear

  • Warm Wool Hiking Socks – Thick and moisture-wicking.
  • Hiking Boots – Waterproof, ankle-supportive boots with spare laces.
  • Camp Shoes – Lightweight sneakers or sandals for resting at campsites.

 

D. Personal Hygiene & Medical Supplies

1. Hygiene Essentials

  • Sunscreen (SPF 30+) & Lip Balm with SPF
  • After-Sun Lotion (for sunburn relief)
  • Anti-Mosquito Cream
  • Toothbrush & Toothpaste
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Fast-Drying Synthetic Towel

2. Medical & Emergency Supplies

  • Personal Prescription Medications– Inform your guide about any health conditions.
  • Blister Treatment Kit – Prevents painful foot blisters.
  • Anti-Diarrhea Medication (Imodium)
  • Pain Relievers (Aspirin, Ibuprofen, or similar)
  • Altitude Sickness Medication (Diamox – Acetazolamide) – Consult a doctor before use.
  • Water Purification Tablets– Must contains silver ions and chlorine or use a portable filter/UV sterilizer.
  • Earplugs – Helpful in crowded lodges or campsites.
  • Extra Glasses/Contact Lenses– Contact lens users should bring glasses as a backup.

 

Photo and Video

FAQ

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Mount Makalu is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas in eastern Nepal, close to Mount Everest. It stands at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet), making it the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Makalu is particularly significant for climbers due to its steep ridges, exposed terrain, and technical challenges, which make it one of the most difficult 8,000-meter peaks to climb. Unlike Everest, it is less commercialized, offering a true mountaineering experience for those seeking solitude and adventure.

Makalu is considered one of the most difficult eight-thousanders due to its technical climbing requirements, steep pitches, knife-edged ridges, and exposed rock sections near the summit. Unlike Everest, which has fixed ropes and commercial expeditions, Makalu requires more technical ice and rock climbing skills. The final ascent involves climbing through Makalu La, the French Couloir, and the exposed summit ridge, making it far more challenging than peaks like Cho Oyu or Manaslu.

The best time to attempt the Makalu Expedition is during the spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) seasons. Spring is generally preferred as the weather is more stable, temperatures are relatively warmer, and snowfall is lower, making conditions more favorable for a summit attempt. Autumn is also possible, but stronger winds and colder temperatures make it slightly more challenging.

The entire Makalu Expedition takes around 45 to 50 days, including travel, acclimatization, and climbing. The journey begins with a flight to Tumlingtar, followed by a trek through Makalu Barun National Park. After reaching Makalu Base Camp (4,870m), climbers spend several weeks establishing higher camps (C1 to C4) and acclimatizing before making their summit push. The return journey takes an additional one to two weeks.

Climbers must obtain several permits and documents before attempting the Makalu Expedition. These include the Makalu Expedition Climbing Permit, issued by the Nepal Government, which varies in cost depending on the season. Additionally, climbers need a Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit and a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card. These permits are usually arranged by the expedition operator.

Climbing Makalu comes with numerous challenges, including steep ascents, unpredictable weather, high-altitude sickness, extreme cold, and technical rock climbing. The summit ridge is particularly dangerous due to its narrow and exposed sections, requiring climbers to have excellent rope-handling skills. Other risks include avalanches, crevasses, and strong winds, especially above 7,500 meters. Acclimatization and proper planning are crucial to minimizing these risks.

Makalu is a highly technical peak, requiring climbers to have prior experience on at least one or two other 8,000-meter mountains or several 7,000-meter technical peaks. Strong ice-climbing, rock-climbing, and high-altitude trekking experience is necessary. Climbers should be in excellent physical condition, with endurance training, cardiovascular fitness, and strength training forming part of their preparation.

The most common route for climbing Makalu is the Southeast Ridge Route, originally pioneered by a French expedition in 1955. The route follows: Base Camp (4,870m) – The starting point of the climb. Camp 1 (6,100m) – Reached via ice slopes and crevasses. Camp 2 (6,600m) – A challenging section with mixed ice and rock. Camp 3 (7,400m) – A steep ascent leading to higher elevations. Camp 4 (7,600m-7,800m) – The final high camp before the summit. Summit (8,485m) – The last section is extremely technical, passing through the French Couloir and exposed summit ridge.

Climbers need high-quality mountaineering equipment, including double-layered insulated boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, fixed rope systems, down suits, high-altitude gloves, and oxygen systems for the summit push. Other essentials include sleeping bags rated for -40°C, satellite phones, and emergency medical kits. Given the extreme temperatures and conditions, high-quality clothing and gear are crucial for safety and success.

Since Makalu is a remote peak, rescue and evacuation options are limited compared to Everest. Helicopter rescues are possible up to Base Camp and lower altitudes, but above that, climbers must rely on their team, Sherpas, and self-rescue techniques. Satellite communication devices are necessary to call for help in emergencies. Expedition operators usually include medical personnel and oxygen cylinders at higher camps to manage altitude sickness and other emergencies.